Malapascua: Shark Diving

This journey with my site mates Leah-batch 269 and AJ-batch 270 began on Friday morning at the northwest bus terminal in Cebu City. Four hours and 160 pesos later we had reached Maya located on the northern most tip of Cebu. It was 80 pesos for a boat ride from Maya to the tiny island of Malapascua (2.5 kilometers by 1 kilometer).

Upon first arrival we received a friendly greeting from the locals then began our trek across the island to Pilar’s Place (500 pesos a night). This secluded hideaway had a full kitchen, shared bathroom and a balcony overlooking the ocean. 

Later we found our way back to the main beach to scope out all the different restaurants. We settled on an Irish Bar named the Craic House, which of course prompted endless jokes. We spent the evening there, wandering back and forth to the ocean, enjoying good food in good company.

Saturday morning Leah woke for an early morning dive with thresher sharks, Malapasqua’s claim to fame. I couldn’t join her because I still need more dive experience, but you can bet I will be back to see those bad boys! Leah came back from her dive just as AJ and I were waking up, with great stories and lots of energy. We all got in our swimsuits without delay and settled in on the beach. We swam, we read and we slept. This was the most relaxing day I've had in months. We hiked out to a nearby light house with a great view of the island. Then for dinner we used the kitchen to whip up some spaghetti accompanied by a bottle of red wine.

Sunday morning we got to the dive shop by 9am to catch the boat to Gato Island. We were accompanied by a Chinese family, a few Italians and Canadians. The waves were wild and choppy, by the time we arrived at the dive site we were all drenched, but who could care? 

We were going diving with sharks!

Our first dive was over some beautiful reefs, we saw a few white tip sharks lounging on the sea floor and hiding under the rocks, many of them accompanied by pilot fish. For lunch the crew barbecued on the boat. We enjoyed a meal of grilled chicken, vegetables and rice while chatting with our fellow ship mates. After only a short while of sitting out in the sun we just couldn't take the heat, so we jumped off the front of the boat to cool off.

The second dive was incredible. We finned further under the shadows of the rocks until we came to a menacing underwater cave. Imagine a huge gaping hole of darkness, a perfect dwelling for a flesh eating sea monster, and you are about to swim through it.

We used flashlights to guide us, never completely knowing what lurked in the darkness. We went deeper and deeper as the cave gradually turned right, then left, all of us carefully maneuvering through the limited space. My eyes had finally adjusted to the darkness, when  before us was a bright shimmer of daylight. We had reached another opening, and the water at the mouth of the cave was a mesmerizing shade of blue. I let out a sigh of relief, and that was when we saw them. It was the clear silhouette of multiple sharks circling at the mouth of the cave.

We moved very slowly, closer and closer to the sharks. My body instinctively was on guard but I reminded myself to remain calm and breath slow. They were only a few meters away. We remained in that position for about five minutes before the sharks swam away from us. 

When we left the cave we were surrounded by huge reefs that towered above us, overflowing with life from every angle. It was all completely unreal. Our guide swam towards an opening in the reefs as he motioned the signal for shark. I followed diligently to the other side where we found more sharks circling and closer this time. Again we just watched in awe as the beautiful creatures glided gracefully in front of us, and then they were gone.

The rest of the dive was gorgeous most notable was an adorable yellow seahorse, but honestly nothing compares to venturing through that cave and seeing so many sharks. I will never forget it. 

After diving we made the most of our last night on the island. I had lost my sandals to the waves so I wandered barefoot after my friends. The sun was setting on our time in Malapascua.